Page 20 - Shawl Weaving Artisan - TT

Fig 4

1 Shearing two to three more strands to make the thread. The
finished product can be spun into yarn. Woven or knitted
The sheep’s wool fleece is removed during the shearing
process, which usually takes place on a farm in the cloth is then created using the wool yarn. Warp and weft
spring before lambing. Domestic sheep can be sheared components are combined during weaving to create the
by a shearer (a worker who uses a machine or a hand- woven structure. The tighter the weave, the smoother the
powered blade to remove wool during shearing) in five cloth, making it more expensive to produce.
to ten minutes. The fleece is typically kept in one piece. 7 Knitting
2 Grading Knitting is a technique that has been used to create
fabrics for thousands of years. It can be used to produce
The next step in the process is grading, which is the materials that come out of the machine ready to be cut
division of fleece into categories depending on overall or as formed pattern pieces and finished apparel. It can
quality. Wool classers determine the fleece’s grade. Wool be used with traditional knitting technique (hand-knitting
is separated into four primary groups by wool classers: needles) and knitting machines.
fleece (which makes up the vast bulk), broken, bellies,
and locks. 8 Finishing
3 Scouring Both worsted and woolens go through several finishing
The weight of the wool fleece decreases when impurities procedures after weaving, such as fulling (soaking the
fabric in water to cause the fibers to lock), crabbing
like sand and dust are removed. Scouring refers to (sealing the interlock), decaying (shrink-proofing), and,
the cleansing or washing of greasy wool to remove occasionally, staining. Wool fibers can be dyed before
contaminants and lanolin. It involves feeding greasy wool being inked, but it is also possible to dye wool after it has
into a machine where it is continuously moved through been woven into fabric.
several washes of liquor-filled bowls (often six to eight)
until the wool is clean and disinfected. Wool can be finished using various methods, such
as scouring, fulling, conductive treatments, relaxation
4 Dyeing
deformation, anti-felting, and functional finishing for
Dyeing can occur at several points in the wool production things like heat resistance, moth proofing, stain repellent,
pipeline, depending on whether the wool goes through and stain release.
the worsted process. Wool can be dyed at any stage,
including fiber, yarn, textiles, and garments. Classification of wool

5 Carding Classification based on the type of sheep
1 Merino wool
It is a crucial stage in the creation of wool cloth. The
process of carding, also known as combing wool, 2 Class-two wool
involves ensuring that all the wool fibers are untangled 3 Class-three wool
and oriented in a way that will allow them to be spun.
4 Class-four wool
6 Spinning and weaving
Wool is spun and woven in this phase. Fibers are spun
together to create one strand, which is then spun with

10 Textile & Handloom: Shawl Weaving Artisan : (NSQF - 2024) R.T. Ex.No 1.1.05